Gulch Guides

Specialty Wines and Conversations in Astoria

The Shallon Winery (1598 Duane Street / 503-325-5978) in Astoria is probably the only place in world that makes specialty wines out of whey, chocolate, wild berries, mangos, plums and a host of other exotic ingredients. However, the unique wines (which are excellent) are only half the reason to visit the tasting room the Shallon Winery. The other reason to go is to have a conversation with owner and winemaker Paul van der Veldt. Paul gives visitors a full tour of his winery. He also dishes out history lessons on the Astoria region, botanical teachings on local plants, and advice on any restaurant or activity in a 50-mile radius. He’ll even explain why aging wine in oak barrels only make it taste like wood. Be warned, though, you’ll be expected to hold up your end of the conversation and don’t be surprised if Paul takes notes as you describe your job and life.

After sampling the chocolate orange, cranberry-whey wine, and the wild plum wines (if he has them in stock), don’t be surprised to find yourself buying a few bottles.

The Great Planes of Oregon

The Evergreen Aviation Museum (503-434-4180 / McMinnville) has such an astonishing collection of historic planes that the visitor is left wondering how they all ended up in a rural area of Oregon. The center piece of the museum is the Spruce Goose – the world’s largest wooden float plane built by Howard Hughes in the mid 1940’s. Hughes flying boat is so gigantic that it dwarfs the other impressive planes in the museum and looms over them in like something ripped from a Hollywood backdrop. Among the other planes are a B-17 Flying Fortress, an SR-71 Blackbird, and one of only 53 Beechcraft Starships ever created.

To get to the museum, take I-5 south from Portland, take exit #294 follow the signs to McMinnville. Continue on Highway 99W through Dundee until the Highway 18 "Ocean Beaches" junction. Turn left on Highway 18 and continue for approximately four miles.

Liquid Zen

On a cold day when steam gently rises from the cedar tubs and snow flakes slowly drift on to the branches of lush pine trees above, Bagby Hot Springs resembles a Japanese Onsen rather than something managed by the U.S. Forest Service.

Situated in the middle of a mossy canopy of trees, Bagby is a series of open-aired wooden bath houses that contain soaking tubs carved from cedar logs. A Robinson Crusoe series of wooden flumes and levers divert the hot water from the source to the tubs; a cold water cistern is nearby for cooling each individual bath to the perfect temperature. Soaking in the tubs is guaranteed to melt stress and worry. There are five private rooms, three public log tubs, and two large cedar tubs that can hold eight to ten people. Soakers drain and fill the tubs between uses.

Bagby Hot Springs is about an hour and a half drive from Portland. To get there, take 224 to Estacada. From Estacada, drive south on 224 for about 40 miles and then take Forest Service Road 63. Turn right on FS Road 70. The parking lot and trail head are about 6 miles from the beginning of FS 70. There are many signs marking the route and it is easy to find.

From the parking lot, the hot springs are a 1.5 mile hike. The gravel path winds its way through a stunningly beautiful old growth forest.

The best time to go is during the week. There can be long waits on weekends (especially for the private tubs) and there have been reports of vandalism at the parking lot. Like every hot springs in Oregon, many soakers option to not wear a swim suit. The dreaded NW Forest Pass is required and rangers do ticket at this site.

Beneath the Earth

The Ape Caves do not contain apes nor, technically speaking, are they caves. Instead they are a two mile long lava tube formed when Mt. St. Helens erupted about 2000 years ago; they are also a local place where a person can get their fill of under-the-ground, Indiana-Jones-style adventure. Grabing a flashlight, warm clothing, and extra batteries, even the most novice person can experience caving here.

The lava tube is divided into two parts: The upper and lower Ape Caves. The lower cave is a very easy "there and back" stroll that allows the visitor to view the unique geology of a lava tube. The upper caves are about a mile and a half long one-way hike. There are several areas where large boulders and rubble (where parts of the roof collapsed in ancient times) must be climbed over. Allow at least two and a half hours for the upper cave.

To get to the Ape Caves, drive I-5 north from Portland until exit 21 at Woodland. Travel east on Highway 503 and USFS Road 90, approximately 35.7 miles to junction of USFS Roads 83 and 90. Turn north (left) onto USFS Road 83 and proceed another 2 miles to the junction of USFS Roads 83 and 8303. Turn west (left) onto USFS Road 8303 and proceed 1.2 miles to to parking lot of lower entrance to Ape Cave. The way is well marked and easy to reach. The dreaded NW Forest Pass is required and rangers do ticket at this site. The caves average 42 degrees. Three sources of light are recommended and a latern works best.

Jake the Alligator Boy and Other Oddities in Long Beach

Marsh’s Free Museum (409 S. Pacific Ave / 360-642-2188) in Long Beach, WA is a throwback to the carnival sideshow, tacky Americana tourist trap era that seems to have slowly faded from the sides of dusty highways. Although it’s actually a store and not really a museum, its walls, ceilings, and shelves are full of enough curiosities and oddities - stuffed two headed bats, authentic shrunken heads, mechanical penny peep shows, Japanese glass fishing balls, human skeletons – to make it worthy of an educational tour.

The reigning king of the oddities and the most famous exhibit at Marsh’s is Jake the Alligator Boy. A stuffed half boy, half alligator, um, thing - Jake is displayed in a dusty glass case near the back of the store near piles of Jake stickers, shirts, post cards, key chains and shot glasses.

To get to Marsh’s from Portland, take Highway 30 west from Portland to Astoria (don’t forget to visit Paul). Take Highway 101 North over the gigantic bridge to Washington and then follow the signs to Long Beach. Marsh’s is in the middle of town. To complete the trip, drive back on Highway 4 on the north side of the Columbia River for a nice scenic drive.