Losing Ella

(It's been so long since I've posted a short story or a piece of my fiction here that I thought it was time. This piece was inspired by the story mentioned in this post as well as a China Mieville piece I read a while back. Pleased be warned that the language in it is a bit more explicit than my normal writing. And, as always, my intentional fiction will be designated by the category “fiction” at the bottom of the post. Fiction found in my non-fiction and travel posts are probably just lies.)
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Dear Ella,

Do you still think about that night on the mountain, Ella? Do you ever find yourself awake at four in the morning, covered in sweat and twisted sheets, startled to find yourself in a darkened room and not, as you had been dreaming, back on the mountain? Are you ever walking along the street, Ella, and suddenly feel your stomach quiver nauseously? As you begin to plot the course to the nearest bathroom, do you realize that you’re not sick? That it’s just nerves? Do you take a deep breath, do an inventory, and realize it’s not work, it’s not the boss, it’s not home, and that the stove isn’t on? And, Ella, just as you feel your stomach slowly relax and calm its convulsions, do you figure out that it’s the goddamn mountain again, and that you smell acrid gun smoke and taste the warm copper of blood and do you think that maybe you should, after all, head straight for a toilet stall and lock the door?

Do you still think about that night on the mountain, Ella? I don’t. I’ve found somewhere much worse.

I miss you Ella. I miss how before the trip you used to come around all the time to my little apartment in Chinatown. It’s a cheap shit-hole, but you said it had character, authenticity. Plus, you lived out in Langford, and frankly, I couldn’t be bothered to make the trip out there, I mean, what’s the point?

You’d show up unexpectedly now and then, carrying a couple of beers from the liquor store around the corner. We’d sit out on the fire escape and bask in the evening sun, the warmth radiating from the bricks at our backs. We’d watch the seagulls circling and landing on the roofs of the buildings around us and we’d listen to the sounds from the restaurant in the courtyard below us. You’d tell me about your shitty job and how you wanted to travel, to just get away from our boring town and do something adventurous. And when I said, “Let’s do it,” you’d either laugh or just stare off towards the harbour.

Of course, I don’t sit out on the fire escape anymore. There are no seagulls and I doubt the restaurants are open anymore. The silence, I must admit, creeps me out.

After we returned from Guatemala, you came over two or three times but you didn’t stay long. We’d talk about “how we were doing” and then you’d make some excuse about meeting friends or having to catch a bus. I called you a couple of times, but you must have had your cell phone turned off.

It’s okay, Ella, I understood. I reminded you of that night on the mountain. It would be impossible for you to move on as long as you had to keep seeing me, my features overlapped with the features of that other me, the one with the blood and moonlight splashed across his face. I wouldn’t want to keep seeing that either.

Where were you, though, when this new horror happened, when our shining city on the sea died or was stolen and changed, replaced, with this, this decaying place, this new wrongness? What were you thinking when it happened? When I discovered the change, my first thought was of you. I tried to call you. Of course, you didn’t pick it up, but I left a message.

Later that night, when I tried to call you again, there was no dial tone; instead, the phone just emitted a hiss. I threw the phone against the wall. It hit the bricks with a dull thud and fell to the wood floor. I haven’t checked to see if it still works.

I didn’t know if I loved you back then, Ella, and if anyone had asked me, which was unlikely, I would have said that love didn’t exist, that it was just a social construct for lonely people too scared of silence. But when, instead of just laughing on my fire escape that night, you said, “Let’s fucking do it,” and your eyes sparked with the reflection of the setting sun, well, that night I would have skipped the bullshit and just answered honestly, “I don’t know.” So we did it, we cobbled the air miles together and I raided my savings, and we planned to live as much as we could for 11 days.

Maybe it was my fault we didn’t talk much after the trip. You could only get 11 days in a row off from your shitty job, and that’s not much time to go all the way to Guatemala. I do remember that when we were in there, we talked a lot and that you told me that you hadn't felt really alive in a long time and that you wanted to feel alive. You thought that the midnight hike seemed to be exactly what we needed to do. We had seen the signs everywhere in Antigua – plastered on concrete walls, pinned to the bulletin board in our hostel. “Full Moon Volcano Climb! Very Safe! Private Guides! Student Discounts!” the signs practically shouted with florescent colors, exclamation points, and capital letters.

You'll laugh, Ella, but I think I was asleep the day the city died and the world became so wrong. I had been taking a lazy Saturday nap, as I had been out drinking by myself the night before. The thing about being alone, Ella, is that the bartenders will always talk to you. Not that I mind drinking in silence. Anyway, I woke up and looked out of my window. The skies that morning were clear and blue, but I saw that the afternoon sky was filled with flat gray clouds.

I stood there looking at the same cityscape that I had seen out my window for the last three years and I could tell something was off. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure it out. It was like looking at one of those cartoons they print in the newspaper where you have to figure out the ten differences between two identical pictures. Only, instead of two images, I only had the world outside of my window and my memory.

I suppose my subconscious mind figured it out first, maybe it instinctively knew that the view was just, well, wrong. Why else would I have stayed there staring as long as I had? When I figured it out, my first thought was to call you.

They say the eye is drawn to movement, Ella. Only outside, my eye was drawn to the fact that there was no movement. Normally, on a warm summer afternoon, our city is filled tourists. The sidewalks are overcrowded, especially here in Chinatown. Only, they were empty. So were the streets.

It was empty outside. Well, okay, not completely empty. There were a few people ever so slowly wandering the sidewalks here and there. I recognized a few of the familiar homeless people reclining in their normal niches in door wells and under bushes. Only, there was no vitality. They could have been catatonic.

That was when I tried to call you then, Ella, but you didn’t pick up the phone. Did you get my message?

Of course, I went outside and walked for hours. I asked a few people what happened - was it an earthquake? Of course, there was no rubble, no trash either. A few people ran off as I approached them, but the others who would talk with me had nothing to tell me. Some asked the same questions I had, others just sobbed and asked if I had seen their wife, or their father, or their brother. “Don’t you see, they were just with me?” But I had less answers for them than they had for me.

Still, the thing that bothers me the most is that the clouds no longer move. There is still wind, but the sky is covered in that thin layer of clouds that just sit there. My days are filled with weak gray light. It’s been that way for a week now. Do you remember how bright the moon could shine, Ella? I'm sure you do.

So, Ella, this is it. This is the end, I think. Every day, there are less and less people in the streets. I don’t know if they’re held up in their homes, like me, or if they’re just gone, like the homeless people I no longer see. It’s as if the world just forgot about them, stopped thinking about them. What’s that old saying - that the universe will end not with a bang but with a whimper? There's some truth behind every cliche, I guess.

Still, I wonder if it really did happen all at once while I was sleeping that day? Or has it been happening so slowly that we just didn’t notice it? If someone asked me, which is unlikely these days, I suppose I’d have to say it began that night on the mountain.

Climbing a volcano in Guatemala under the full moon sounded like just what we came to that country to do. And, hey, since we only had 11 days, and we wanted to fit as much in as possible, doing crap at night seemed like a good option.

“We can always sleep when we’re home,” you said.

“Or dead,” I replied.

“What’s the difference?” you joked weakly.

So, we hired a guide for a full moon climb up one of the local volcanoes. Not the active one, I was disappointed to learn - that one was still off limits - but one of the other volcanoes that just look just like mountains. The tour operator, a slick young college guy, promised us it would be “just as cool.”

He introduced us to Francisco, our guide. Francisco was a short older Guatemala guy with a straw hat and a weathered face. He looked like one of the old campesinos, peasant farmers who loitered in Antigua’s main square. He also carried a shotgun and didn’t speak English.

The young tour operator noticed you eyeing the shotgun, Ella. “Look,” he said in his smooth Latin accent, “I am your friend right, and friends are always honest, so I will tell you the truth: There have been lots of robberies but just stay with Francisco here, and you’ll be perfectly safe. The government is paying bounties for bandits, so there is much less crime now.”

The tour operator didn’t understand your expression, did he Ella? You weren’t worried about the gun. No, you loved the idea of the shotgun, didn’t you? It wasn’t like the hostel filled with Europeans. No, the campesino and the shotgun were authentic, weren’t they? They were what you came to see.

And so, we began to climb. The trail was in the trees, but because of the full moon, it was surprisingly light. We took off at a brisk pace as we had only four hours before the tour operator would pick us back up at the trail head.

We hiked up the trail, Francisco walking a few meters behind us and not saying a word. His stride was strong and it was apparent that, despite being at least twice our age, he could out-hike us anytime. Soon, we forgot about him and chatted as we hiked the steep and rocky path up the mountain. I don’t think I had seen you that happy in a long time.

After about two hours Francisco stopped to tie his shoe. We slowed down but the old Campesino waved us on. We continued, and after about 15 minutes, we realized that Francisco was no longer with us.

We stopped and were standing there, looking down the way we had come, wondering what we should do, when we heard the voice behind us.

“Your backpack, por favor,” the voice said slowly and quietly. But still we jumped. Behind us, was a Guatemalan teenager dressed all in black. His t-shirt, I still remember, had a silver AC/DC logo on it. He held a large machete in his hand and waived it at me.

I held my hands up.

“Tranquilo! Do not say a word,” the kid hissed. “Give me your backpack and I no hurt no one.”

I slowly removed the straps from my shoulder. I don’t know what you were doing Ella, because my eyes were on the kid, his face, his machete. I wish I had been watching you instead.

I held my backpack out, and the kid stepped towards me to take it. Then his face was gone. It didn’t melt, it didn’t explode. It was just there one second and then there was a black, gaping hole.

And this is how I remember it, Ella. Each element separate, like looking at individual frames in a strip of film. You know that the frames create a movie, but when you only see two or three of them, they just look like small pictures. First, the face is gone, then there is a flash of light, then there is that acrid, pungent smell like firecrackers on the Chinese New Year, then there is a roaring crash of noise that drowns every other noise, then a warm spattering of liquid hits my face, and finally the kid falls into me and we both fall backwards.

My eyes are closed but I can feel the body’s weight. It’s warm and heavy, and it’s twitching gently. Besides the pungent scent of firecrackers, I smell shit. A second later, the weight on my chest is gone and Francisco, still holding the shotgun, is pulling me to my feet.

He is smiling. He thumps me on the back and rubs his thumbs against his forefingers in the universal gesture for money. He turns and pokes the body – it’s not a kid any longer, is it - and I can see that it’s still holding the machete. Francisco bends down and unclamps the body’s grasp on the knife. He picks up the machete and grabs the body’s head by its black hair, just above where a face should be. He gets down on one knee and lines the machete up with the neck and then Francisco raises the long, wicked blade above his head.

I see no more because I am running, running down the dark trail, and it’s not until I reach the trail head and find you sobbing there, Ella, that I remember that I am not alone. I do not know if you got there before me or after me. All I know is that I am at the trail head and I am sobbing and there is vomit and dark bile and gore on the front of my shirt, and I hear you sobbing. I may have been there for an hour; I may have just got there. I do not, know, Ella, I do not know.

That rest of that night was a daze. After a long hot shower in the hostel, we went to the police and they told us it is part of the bounty program and that crime is way down and that Guatemala was much safer because of that. The tour operator offered us our money back. I’m not really sure how, but then we were flying home, flying back to our shiny, boring city by the sea. Did the hostel arrange that? The police? Did you Ella?

And I know you know all of this. And I know that night on the mountain followed us home. But what I wanted to tell you, Ella, is that I’m sorry. I’m sorry for forgetting about you on the mountain. I'm sorry for running. I'm sorry for everything.

Two days after it happened, Ella, not the mountain but the wrongness, I thought about trying to go out to Langford to find you. I loaded some water into an old backpack (my new one is still in Guatemala) and walked up the street. I walked past where you used to catch the bus and then I remembered that I hadn't seen a bus or any cars for days. Someone had ripped the bus schedule so it no longer listed any stops for the suburbs. The little list of times and stops ended with a ragged tear about where the edge of the city would have been. I sat there for a while, and then I cried a bit, and then I went home.

Last night, Ella, I woke up to screaming and shouting coming from outside. It was male but surprising high-pitched. I instinctively looked at my clock, but it had stopped working two days ago. The screaming continued and I looked out the window. Some kid, wearing a baseball cap and a University t-shirt was walking in a circle in the middle of the no longer noisy intersection in front of my building. “Call 911,” he shouted occasionally.

I watched him for a bit and then went back to bed. I put the earplugs in – remember those, Ella, we bought them for the hostel – and I tried to go back to sleep. I failed, of course. Instead, though, I made a decision. I’m leaving this city, our shining city by the sea.

So, I’ve written this all down, Ella, and tomorrow I’ll put this in an envelope and write your address on the front and put a stamp on it and drop it in a mail box. I’m sorry for the mountain, Ella. I’m sorry for the bullshit, for yelling at you.

I figured the wind would have stopped by now but it hasn’t. So, I’m going to take one of the sailboats that are still tied up in the harbour and I’ll sail whichever way the compass now points to as South.

I’m sorry I’m not coming to Langford tomorrow, Ella, I’m so sorry.

I miss you.

Love,

Me

In Which Travelocity Asks Me to Blether About One of My Favorite Places

The Internet café’s air conditioning was on full blast, making me wish that I was wearing more than shorts, sandals, and a t-shirt. Jen and I were in Tulum, Mexico on our honeymoon and had stopped in to check email. Buried amongst various messages from friends, family, and Nigerian businessmen was an email whose subject line read: Travelocity Podcast Interview. I clicked on it.

A few weeks later and back at home, I pulled on my Gore-tex raincoat and walked up the street and into the local CBC radio station.

“Uh,” I said, “I’m hear to record an interview.” They knew what I was talking about and showed me to a recording studio. A technician arranged for the international phone call from the interviewer to be routed to my mic.

And so, this week, I made my podcast debut on Travelocity’s Window Seat blog. Specifically, I answered some questions about the Mayan Riviera and talked about some of the places we recommend on our Gulch Guides for their Podcast Episode 4: Paradise. You can also scroll down for the specific section on the Mayan Riviera to hear the segment which features me. I’m also really happy to report that technology exists to edit out all of my “uh’s” and “ums.” Well, most of them at any rate.

Thanks again to Travelocity and the people at LA Podsquad for the opportunity. Here are some specific sections of this website that were relevant to the podcast:

Lessons Learned the Hardway: Taxicabs in Paradise

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comWe had not taken more than a dozen steps inside the Tulum bus terminal when Jen realized that she was missing the small pouch that she had been using as a wallet. We quickly turned around. In front of the bus station was a solid line of white, identical looking taxicabs. It seemed like there were at least 50 of them, all small sedans with red stripes, and they were constantly coming and going. It had only been a minute or two since one of those white taxis had dropped us at the curb and pulled away.

“I had set it on my lap and it must have slid off and fell on the floor,” Jen informed me. “My credit and at ATM cards are in it.” Luckily, her passport was in her money belt.

While I waited with our backpacks, Jen (with her superior Spanish accent) went to see if she could track the taxi down. She returned moments later, looking flushed.

“Do you remember the number of the taxi?” she asked. “If we can figure out what taxi we were in, the drivers can track him down for us.”

“I don’t,” I replied.

“Well, one of the drivers will take one of us back to the hotel just in case someone there saw which taxi picked us up.”

She took her pack and introduced me to Antonio, a young guy who looked to be about ten years younger than us. We arranged that Jen would stay at the bus station just in case the taxi came back.

I climbed into the front passenger seat of Antonio’s cab. He made a u-turn across the highway and piloted us toward the hotel zone along the beach.

We rode along in silence and then he asked, “Do you remember what type of car he was driving?”

“It was small – maybe a Nissan. It was white and it had a red stripe.” I replied in my clumsy Spanish.

“All taxis in Tulum are white and have a red stripe,” Antonio replied with a smile. He slowed down as we passed a taxi.

“Was that it?” he asked.

“Um, I don’t think so.”

“Well, what did the driver look like? Was he young, was he old?”

“Um,” I said, trying to remember but I had not taken the time that morning to see the driver as a person. In my mind he was just an anonymous Mexican taxi driver.

Antonio looked over at me. Based on the heat coming off my face, I’m sure it was red.

“Don’t worry, friend, people leave stuff all the time in taxis.” He slowed down as we passed another taxi. I looked at it, but it looked just like every other taxi in the whole area.

At the hotel, Antonio hopped out and talked to the staff people in fast, rapid fire Spanish. They shook their head. We got back in the cab and drove a mile down the road. A small dirt road led a few hundred yards through the jungle to a clearing where four or five cabs were parked. The turquoise water of the ocean could be seen through the trees.

Antonio pointed to where the drivers were lounging at the side of the clearing.

“Are any of those guys him?” He asked.

“I don’t think so.” I answered.

“Can you remember anything about him?” He asked. “Was he bald? Was his hair like mine?”

I thought about it again for moment.

“I think he had a mustache,” I said weakly.

Antonio got out and talked to the other drivers.

“No luck,” he said when he returned.

We drove slowly back to the bus station, with Antonio slowing down even more as we passed each taxi and I scrutinized it for something that might look familiar.

At the bus station, Jen’s luck had been non-existent as well. Antonio suggested that we might want to go back to the taxi headquarters, where they had pictures of every single taxi driver on file. Despite having no clue of what our driver had looked like, we agreed.

The taxi headquarters (we were never sure if it was a company, union, or co-op of owner-operators) was in the second floor of a rebar and concrete building that looked half finished. We were ushered thorough a muggy reception area where a few middle aged men lounged and into a side office where a man was sitting at a desk.

Antonio spoke to the man. The man looked at us and pulled a couple of three ring binders off the shelf behind him.

We opened the first one to find it filled with Polaroid snapshots of the heads of men staring straight ahead. Their name and what must have been their cab number was written under each picture. There were hundreds of faces.

We flipped through the pages. Here there were old guys, young guys, guys that looked tired, guys that smiled at the camera, bald guys, the occasional woman, guys who shared cab numbers, and an amazing amount of guys with mustaches. It went on and on.

Jen and I finally admitted defeat. We got the email address of the guy who was sitting behind the desk just in case someone turned in her wallet and Antonio drove us back to the bus station. He pointed us to an Internet café where we could call the U.S. and suggested that we cancel the credit cards right away. We thanked Antonio for his help. A few days later, Jen emailed the taxi manager but she never heard back.

A couple of weeks later, Jen and I returned to Tulum to end our vacation with a few more days on the beach. Stepping out of the bus station, we spotted the long line of white taxi cabs. We peered up and down the block hoping to see Antonio but we didn’t spy him.

A friendly, middle-age man who was going a little bald on the top helped us load our gear into the truck of his cab. He asked us where we were going and we told him the name of the hotel and then settled into the back seat of the taxi. Taxi 214 to be exact.

Field Report: The Land of Sun and Sky and Semi-Secret Atomic Laboratories

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comLast month, Jen and I spent a little over a week traveling through New Mexico. It was the first time either of us had stepped into that curious state and I’ve been meaning to do a post about our travels there ever since. I figured I might have written about soaking in hot springs with Russian nuclear physicists and Native American air traffic controllers. Or perhaps I would have described walking miles though drifting sand dunes while not-so-stealthy stealth fighters ripped through the flawless blue sky overhead. I probably would have mentioned pushing buttons on aging and obsolete computers that were piled to the roof in a store that sells salvaged goods from a nuclear laboratory. I would have written about climbing icy ladders up the side of a cliff to peer at the sacred kiva of a people who had centuries ago dug their cities into the rock walls of what is now New Mexico. I think I would have let it slip about how bright the stars shine in the high-altitude, low humidity mountains outside of Santa Fe and talked about how both the mountains and stars are even more beautiful when you are visiting what might be the only Japanese-style onsen in the country. I might have written about meeting the surveyor and the cosmetologist and their humorous quest to find a road that exists mainly in historic road-side informational signs. I’m sure that, at the very least, I would have recommended the food, which comes in my two favorite flavors: spicy and spicier.

Instead of writing about these things, though, I thought I’d quickly (and, well, lazily) link to all our very favorite places we visited while putting 1000 miles on the rental car. Just like our travel guides, I’m only listing those things that we thought were truly great and that we wouldn’t hesitate to check out again.

  • Satellite Coffee (Albuquerque): Need to raise your IQ and your energy levels a few points? Well, if you’re like me the quickest and easiest way to do that is with a steaming hot cup of caffeine. Satellite Coffee, which has 6 locations around Albuquerque, makes an excellent caffeine refueling station. Plus, at least one of their locations looks like it was hit by a UFO.

  • Ten Thousand Waves (Santa Fe): An onsen is a Japanese hot spring that combines geothermally heated pools with beautiful Japanese architecture and gardens. The downside of Japanese onsens is that they are hard to find outside of Japan. And, yet, one seems to exist in the mountains just outside of Santa Fe. A beautiful yet fairly expensive place, Ten Thousand Waves is the perfect way to relax after a hard day of hiking, skiing, museum going, or sightseeing. You can rent private pools, relax in the communal pool and sauna, or go for the whole spa treatment. Either way, you'll be provided with a kimono, sandals, and cucumber water. It's not necessarily a place for the modest nor the thrifty but a visit is a treat and, afterwards, you'll be too relaxed to worry about a travel budget anyway.

  • Flying Star Cafe (Albuquerque): This restaurant is reasonably priced, is open late, serves tasty food, and is just plain cool. Owned by the same people who run Satellite Coffee, the Flying Star might be how people in the 1950's imagined diners would look in the future. While there are several locations around Albuquerque, I highly recommend the downtown one (723 Silver Ave SW) as it has an especially cool retro-futuristic feel going for it. The huevos rancheros with red chili were especially tasty and they also have a lot of good options for vegetarian/vegan types.

  • International Balloon Museum (Albuquerque): I’ve been to a lot of different museums in my various travels but this is the only one that I’ve ever visited which focuses solely on balloons. I’m not talking about the little bend into animal shape or fill with water and throw at your neighbor type balloon. No, this is a museum dedicated to those vessels that sail through the skies based on centuries old lighter than air technology. The museum has a lot of great exhibits that range from the history of ballooning to balloon simulators to airship models to Jules Verne’s writing about balloons. There is also, of course, scientific explanations of how hot air and gas balloons work. For the true balloon enthusiast, the highlight has to be the gondolas from famous balloons - those that were the first to launch into the stratosphere, cross the oceans, or even attempt to go around the ocean. Admission is quite reasonable (we paid less the $5 bucks) and the volunteer staff are both knowledgeable and very, very enthusiastic. I would love to visit the museum during the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, in which thousands of hot air balloons are launched nearby.

    Gulch @ MentalWanderings.com

  • Bandelier National Monument (near Santa Fe): This small national park is about a 45 minute drive from Santa Fe and centers on Frijoles Canyon, which, 600 years ago, was the home to several communities of Ancestral Puebloans. The canyon contains a large amount of restored ruins of a number of different dwellings and kivas. The Main Loop and Alcove House Trails wind their way along the canyon walls and you can climb ladders up the cliff sides to check out various caves and dwellings. The Falls Trail leads to some beautiful views and is nice if you'd like to do a longer hike.

  • Riverbend Hot Springs (Truth or Consequences): The sleepy town of Truth or Consequences is famous for its little 1950's style developed hot springs motels and it seems like it would be hard to find a place better than the Riverbend. The Riverbend is a funky and inexpensive hot springs place located on the banks of the Rio Grande River. There are four public pools (you can also rent private tubs) that are all outdoors and feature great views. The hotel ranges from hostel style dorms to rooms with shared baths as well as full private rooms. The owners are very friendly and the water is great.

  • The Black Hole of Los Alamos (Los Alamos): Los Alamos is a weird town. It has a population of around 13,000 people and about 10,000 of them all work at the same place. That place is the Los Alamos National Laboratory (LANL), the birthplace of the atomic bomb and one of the few known centers that, even today, does nuclear weapon research. There’s a fine and free museum in town that highlights all the benefits of nuclear energy and atomic weapons. However, the best place to check out is the Black Hole, a store that is self described as being a "recycler of nuclear waste". It’s a huge sprawling thrift shop that sells used equipment from the LANL. It sells everything from filing cabinets to atomic bomb detonator cables (only $5 each) and cryogenic equipment and Manhattan Project souvenirs. For some good background info on the store and the very interesting owner, Ed Grothus, check out this 2006 Esquire article. At any rate, you can spend hours wandering around the aisles of the Black Hole wondering what each thing did and wishing you could bring some parts home for that atomic powered robot that you were always planning on building.

  • White Sands National Monument: The US is blessed to have many areas of open sand dunes and I’ve visited several of them. However, none of them compare to White Sands. The name is apt – the sand at White Sands is very white. It is white to the point of looking like salt or even snow and, when visiting in winter, it’s easy to imagine you’ve somehow took a wrong turn and ended up in Antarctica. At any rate, bring suntan lotion and sunglasses, and be sure to hike the whole loop of the Alkali Flats Trail.

  • American International Rattlesnake Museum (Albuquerque): After entering through the large gift shop, I expected this place to be a somewhat cheesy tourist trap. However the museum was quite interesting. It features row after row of glass aquariums filled with rattlesnakes and other types of desert reptiles (including my favorite, Mollie the Gila Monster). In fact, it is home to the largest collection of different species of live rattlesnakes in the world, which are only separated from the visitor by thin panes of glass. It’s impossible, though, to leave the place without learning something, even if it’s only how beautiful some of the snakes can be.

  • The Turquoise Trail: When driving between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, skip the Interstate and take the scenic route along Highway 14, also called the Turquoise Trail. This back road route winds its way through scenic and funky little towns. It’s definitely worth stretching your legs and grabbing a coffee in Madrid and Cerrillos.

  • Burt’s Tiki Lounge (Albuquerque): Sometimes when you’re in a land locked state and you desperately need a tropical vacation, the easiest solution is to head for a tiki lounge. Burt’s Tiki Lounge, located downtown at 313 Gold Ave. SW, is the way to have a island holiday in a single night. It has affordable drinks, friendly bartenders, live music, and a weekly pub trivia contest (in which we managed to not even place in the top ten on the night we visited). Unlike some island bars, there's never a cover charge at Burt's.

  • Blake’s Lotaburger (Everywhere): Why grab just another burger from just another national chain, when you can grab a lotaburger from a New Mexico chain? With 76 locations across the state, Blake’s Lotaburger serves some good burgers that can only be had in New Mexico. I recommend trying the a lotaburger with green chili.

  • Free Museum Night (Santa Fe): Santa Fe is home to many nice museums and a lot of them are free on Friday nights after 5pm. Since many of the museums are close together (and some of the ones in the Plaza area are small), it’s easy to visit two or three before they close for the night.

If you haven’t already found it, I’ve posted a photo album from our trip. I’m sure there are more places and corners and cliffs and secrets to check out in New Mexico. I can’t wait to fire up my hot air balloon and hope that the wind currents carry me back there soon.

Keeping the Winter Doldrums Away: My Favorite Winter Hikes of 2008

I stumbled off the frozen trail and tumbled into a snow drift. Instantly, snow filled my hiking boots and it seemed as if the designers of my socks might have originally been employed in a sponge factory. Within minutes, my socks were cold, wet, and soggy. And I loved it.

Last year at this time, I was wasting away in the bleak doldum days of winter. This winter, though, thanks to a little travel and better weather, I’ve been fortunate to lace up my hiking boots, pull on my navy blue thermal underwear, button up my gore-tex jacket, yank on my hat, and do a number of interesting hikes.

Here then, rather obliquely, are excellent winter hikes that I’ve done in the last six weeks and that I wouldn’t hesitate to do again:

Hike: Ousel Falls
Location: Big Sky, Montana
Winter Rating: Easy, expect lots of packed snow

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comThis short 1.5 mile hike gets enough foot traffic in winter that the snow on the trail gets packed down and no snow shoes or skis are needed. There is really only one main reason to hike this trail in winter: frozen water falls! Frozen water falls, quiet simply, justify the whole reason for shivering for the three or four months (or more in Montana) of winter every year. They are some of my favorite things on the planet and the ones at Ousel Falls are especially great.

The Ousel Falls trail, after descending from the parking lot, will eventually lead you to a few different falls. The main falls are wide and stretch the width of a narrow canyon forming a solid wall of ice. Before then, though, is an area with a number of smaller falls that form free standing ice columns. In winter, with no people around and the noise of a stream flowing under a layer of ice, Ousel Falls is a peaceful, beautiful hike.

To reach the trail head from the Big Sky entrance, drive 2.4 miles along the main Big Sky road. Turn left on Ousel Falls Road and continue for 2.1 miles to the well marked parking area.


Hike: Mount Helena
Location: Helena, Montana
Winter Rating: Moderate, trails can be icy

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comThe capital city of Montana is lucky in that it claims an entire mountain as a city park. Mount Helena is covered with trails and the moderate hike to the top can be done it winter. The roughly four mile hike has an elevation gain of over a thousand feet, but it’s worth it. After you reach the top of the 5,500 foot peak, you’ll have a great view of the entire Helena Valley.

Be warned that snowy and icy winter conditions, combined with lots of foot traffic, can pack snow down on the trails and make them quite slippery. Trails that are exposed to sun (such as the Prospect Shafts Trail) tend to be easier. Hiking poles are recommended in winter. To reach the trail from downtown Helena, drive south on Park Avenue until you see the sign for Mount Helena City Park and the Reeders Village subdivision.


Hike: The Alkali Flats
Location: White Sands, New Mexico
Winter Rating: Easy to Moderate, wear sunscreen even in winter

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comWhite Sands National Monument is only located about 55 miles from the US-Mexico border. Yet, while hiking in the blindingly white sand dunes in January, it’s easy to imagine that you’re hiking somewhere north of the arctic circle. Your body and mind might be confused because, although it will be warm out, the view will seem like you’re hiking through miles of snow drifts and hills. The dunes at White Sands are not like other dunes I’ve visited. Instead, they are fairly hard packed, easy to hike through, and the color of fresh snow or sea salt.

The 5 mile Alkali Flat Trail loops it’s way from the heart of the dunes to the edge of the dry lake bed of Lake Otero (where the dunes form) and back again. Winter is an excellent time to go as the temperature is reasonable and the crowds are few. After the first two or three miles, you’ll likely not see many people at all. Be sure to bring sunglasses as the sand can be especially blinding.

White Sands is about three and a half hours from Albuquerque. To reach the trail head from the entrance to the park, follow the only road for about 7 miles to the far end of the loop until you see the marked trail head.



Hike: East Sooke Coast Trail

Location: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Winter Rating: Easy to Moderate, rain gear is always a good idea

Gulch! @ MentalWanderings.comThis trail is located only about 20 miles from where we live and it has become our default in that we hike it a lot during all times of the year. Winter along the south coast of Vancouver Island can be rainy and windy but usually the weather is fairly moderate and hiking is enjoyable if not somewhat muddy.

Our favorite stretch of the East Sooke Coast Trail is to hike from the Aylard Farm Parking Lot to Beechey Head, which takes roughly two hours round trip. The trail hugs the coast and is not flat – it involves the scaling of rocks, the traversing of tree roots, and the scrambling up of short hills. The view from Beechey Head, though, is truly spectacular and a fine place to drink a cup of hot tea and hang out for a bit. In winter, sea lions and bald eagles can often be seen.

East Sooke Regional Park is about a 45-minute drive from Victoria. To reach the Aylard Farm trail, take a left when Gillespie Road comes to a “T” intersection with East Sooke Road. Continue on East Sooke for five minutes and then take a right on Becher Bay Road to the park entrance.